Literally and Figuratively. Warning - if you are offended by overt religious cynicism (read sarcasm) followed by a blatant spiritual awakening, stop reading now. The rest of you who actually GET ME in all of my contradicting complexity, read on.
LITERALLY
Today I visited the
After, I was searched and screened more effectively than when I entered the country (these Italians aren’t very trusting) - I was pleasantly surprised at the pretty impressive display of art (see picasaweb album of a few highlights - the ones I could photograph anyway). Apparently the 100,000 people who have been following me (WOULD THEY STOP ALREADY, I MEAN SERIOUSLY IT'S GETTING OLD) agree. So many people in fact, that there were times I felt like I was on a "people mover" and couldn't stop walking even if I wanted to.
After about 3 hours, the people mover moved me right into the Sistine Chapel - the piece du résistance of the Vatican Museum and of Michelangelo (they refer to him by his first name here - being the pope and all, they must have been super tight..). This place is such an attraction that they don't even let you stand still long enough to really take it all in, unless you are one of the lucky few to get the coveted seats along the side - SCORE! While no pictures, or talking for that matter are allowed inside, in this coveted seat you can listen to the audio guide in somewhat peace as you take it all in.
This is where I found "God"...
FIGURATIVELY
The mastery with which this room was frescoed is astonishing. For the first time in all three of my trips here (first in the 80's and then in the 90's) the chapel was completely restored to its glory and not covered in scaffolding or drapes. The colors, the figures, the detail...amazing. Michelangelo’s famous ceiling and alter piece are simply breathtaking. In the center of the ceiling is the most famous of the panels - God reaching out to Adam. This is where it "clicked" for me.
After 36 years of life (20 of them under strict Catholic dogma, the last 16 in search of answers as to who God is according to other teachings and disciplines) and in a moment, looking up at the ceiling of one of the most revered holy places on earth, I finally got a clue. More like a hint, but go with it...
God, Spirit, Universe...is the divine power in all of us that gives us life. It doesn't matter in which form you worship - prayer, meditation, or simply attempting to live a good life, "God" is always there reaching out to us. Even when we are flawed and lost (i.e. Adam in the panel) all we need to do is reach out, "God" will always reach back to help us live the life we are meant to live. Wow, I even tripped myself out there.
Still moved and contemplative of this revelation, I moved onto St. Peter's Basilica. Possibly the most impressive structure I have ever seen. Filled with treasures and sculptures commissioned exclusively for it, the place is FIERCE. But the most moving place I found was the tombs of the Popes located below the basilica.
I wandered through the well lit "catacombs" displaying the sarcophagus or monument to each of the popes in order of succession. Towards the end of the aisle of Popes who have lived/died thus far and strangely enough, closest resting place next to St. Peter himself, was of Pope John Paul II - PJP2 to his friends, of which he had/has many. A rather largish crowd had gathered behind velvet ropes to pray to "Il Papa" who by all accounts, was considered a Rockstar, while others questioned his mass appeal in an age of such religious upheaval - he did represent one of the most antiquated and inflexible forms of religion in existence.
Being raised Catholic and Polish, PJP2 was definitely of iconic status in my house. So out of reverence I too stopped and contemplated with the crowd. The strangest thing happened as I stood there, I could feel the warm energy emanating off this small crowd of pilgrims. I watched as person after person passed by and dropped to their knees in reverence of this man – priests, nuns, everyman/woman, young, old, pious, cynical... It was so powerful that I found myself moved to tears. Now where did THAT come from?!?
I ended my day at a small enoteca in a small piazza tucked between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. I sat there for a few hours enjoying the best red wine I have ever had in my life ("Estatura" Sangiovese from the Brunello region for you foodies out there), read and generally just got into my groove. I think I found "my spot".
Despite my very powerful day, I still don't have the answers. So don't come knocking on my door for spiritual guidance, at least not yet - I still have 10 more days....

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